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This guide is complete yet ( last update on 18.Jan.2017)
the TTSH project isn`t for beginners !
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Table of Contents
|Fuzzbass||USA||fuzzbass "at" verizon.net|
|Elmigel||USA||Pete.hartman "at" gmail.com|
|Dave.H||USA||ishkabbible "at" gmail.com|
|LED-man||Europe/worldwide||check my Impressum|
you find the known erros/issues in "the tabs on top"
rev.3 Build Guide
This guide is for users with experience in SDIY, you need a scope and a frequency counter, DMM/DVM/LCR-Meter)
i dont share infos about polarity of capacitors, this basics skills are required, otherwise feel free to ask me for a assembly service. (check the trusted builder list)
please use a fume extractor.
its needed to solder 6 SMT caps in 0805 format and 2 SMT power regulators.
this guide is a best practice guide, i´m not responsible for failures/malfunctions/defects.
- lets start with the powersupply board - add all needed parts on the pcb, start with the two SMT power regulators.
there is one missing part (a dual choke) - please use wire links here or resistor legs
turn the 2 pol MTA header as described in the picture
if needed - wash the pcb carfully on the solderside
testing/trimming: use a 18-24V DC powersupply for input and set the output to 15V/-15V by usage of the both trimmers
measure between -V and 0 and +V and 0
- Mainboard PCB - place all IC-Sockets ( tin one ic socket from top, place the ic socket and heat the ic socket pin - the socket drop in place
on the rear side of the PCB is for the LED driver a ic socket - we dont use this one - don't solder a ic-socket here ! see step14
- best practise - begin with the "most use values" and end with the value range Mainboard PCB - start with 100K resistors, 10K, 1K, 1M, 100R (reverb), 10R (Amp) 10M (top right)
if done - 47k, 4k7, 470K, 4M7, – 22K, 220K, 220R, 2M2, 33K, 3M3, 330K... — 30K1, 680R, 68K, 68K1, 680K... ..... and all other
please remember: on solderside are few resistors too - on VCO 4027 boards and filter boards too - its your choice to leave it for later or assembly it yet too (i prefer later)
- Mainboard PCB - place all rectifiers 1N4148
- solder from top all parts
- cut the resistor and rectifier legs from bottom side
- place all MLCC caps and solder from top
- place all polyester/polypropylene caps - bend the legs from top
- add all transistors in place and solder one pin from top -(except the 2N3954, both 2N3958 - if you cant test this, use a milled IC-socket and cut the pins out - use this as socket)
- turn the pcb and solder all pins. (no switches, no fader, no jacks, no pot, no trimmers)
- you find on solderside few resistors - but take a look at step 14 - you don´t need the 3 resistors for the LED driver ( LEDs works too)
- wash the pcb 2-3 times if needed, i use Ispopropylen alcohole
- make a breaktime/pause yet - the pcb needs time to dry
- if you don't need a break time/pause - assembly the filterboards and 3 VCO 4027 boards - wash the pcbs too, make sure you use flat 10uF electrolyte capacitors, use c0g, polypropylen or silvamica for the 680pF cap, don`t mount the connectionsheaders yet
- on the PCB solder side, there is ic socket for the LED driver (near the multiples) its needed to bridge with a resistor leg the middle pins
on TTSH V2 and V3, you can easily modify the LED system so as to trim the LEDs all the way of off. Replace the 3k3 resistor located next to the TL071 pads to a jumper. Tested.
- Mainboard pcb: its time to add all other parts on the pcb - i prefer multiturn trimmers for the VCO V/oct trimmers 20K or 25K, but remember this can´t mounted on the frontpanel pcb side due to sizing, you have to open your TTSH for trimming the VCOs, begin with trimmers, faders - for faders keep attention on correct pcb side, best practice for faders: turn the pcb upwards on your desk add 4 faders in place, one hand holds the faders with other hand bend the faderpins with a flat screwdriver, solder all faders, add the Gain pot on top and solder them.
- add the header/sockets for VCOs, Filtercard - best practice: mount each header in socket - put them in place on the pcb - add the vco pcb on top and solder at first on top (sub vco pcb to header) not the header to mainboard pcb.
then start the soldertask for the other side.
- check on your pcb other parts: you need to assembly few 2pol, 5pol MTA headers (gate/trigger/power) solder in the RCA jack for reverb (see known issues for wrong silkscreen), you have to add a 3 pol MTA header to powering the optional Gatebooster and/or TTSH sync board , on each section you find 6 pol holes.
- now its nearly done - doublecheck all solderpoints, missing resistors,caps..
- add the 13x 12mm spacers for speaker to pcb, dont fix it very strong - we need to align this in step 22
- you find on the pcb on left bottom near the speaker hole switch adapter pcbs, cut them out and place they behind the switches
- setup all 81jacks in place, don`t solder the jacks yet
- place the frontpanel on the pcb/spacers - fix it with screws - if needed align the spacers
- add on each corner a washer and nut to a jack and at the bottom/near of the voltageprocessor
- at this time you need four hands if possible.. to turn the pcb without loosing jacks
- solder at first the jacks from step 21
- check the switch positions, align it and solder 1-2 pins (middle pins), check again the positions, if needed correct it.
- if the alignment of all parts are fine, solder all switches and jacks
- if needed clean with eartips and isopropylene the solderpoints of silder/switches/jacks
- add the 3 VCO 4027 modules and one filtercard in place.
- time for wiring: speaker wiring/headphone,
WARNING: never put a MONO plug in the headphone amp or your 10R resistors goes with smoke in the hell
TTSH rev.2+3 speaker wiring - approved
- unmount the panel, add 3 long spacers (20-50mm to the 3 holes near voltage processor - the stands are used for the powersupply yet - mount the psu pcb on top), remount the panel
- wire the power-switch between + line and the powersupply pcb input
for power between power supply and mainboard - double-check the polarity,
rev.3 Quick build guide ( thanks to Anthony A Flagg aka fuzzbass)
this guide is only for builders with TTSH experience, dont try it if you build a TTSH before, the guide contains a BOM with partnumbers too.
V3 quick build bom.xlsx (right click to "save as")
TTSH Trimming - calibration
works best with Scope and good DMM (4,5digits with less than 1% tolerance)
make sure your device works without smoke, smell, all LEDs are on, your VCO/VCF/VCA works.
before you start, let the TTSH in a room with stable temperature, power on the TTSH for 30 min. before you start the calibration.
make sure you have no jumper on kbd/cv pcb header (was used in TTSH rev.1 buildguide)
Table of Content
Powersupply (for rev.3)
trim to excactly -15V/15V by usage of the Powersupply Multiturn trimmer, measure between -V and 0 and +V and 0
use a 12V - 24DC powersupply at the input.
before you start with the Ringmodulator calibrate the VCO2 Sinewave and check the function of VCO1
01) Put switch in DC position
02) Raise VCO 1 slider only
03) Monitor output with oscilloscope and adjust POS NULL for minimum output
01) Put switch in AC position
02) Raise VCO 1 slider only
03) Monitor output with oscilloscope and adjust NEG NULL for minimum output
01) Raise both sliders into Ring Modulator and set switch to DC
02) Adjust GAIN trimmer for 20Vpp maximum
VCO 1 to 3
V/oct adjustments (own Info: start with VCO1 - use the Mixer to doublecheck the same initial frequency and lowest/highest frequency to get the same values on all VCOs)
01) Monitor output with frequency counter or tuning standard
02) Depress low C and adjust frequency for 100Hz using coarse or fine tune slider
03) Depress high C and adjust 1V/OCT trimmer for 1600Hz
04) repeat 2 and 3 until C are correct
01) Monitor output with oscilloscope or frequency counter
02) All FM sliders down
03) Remove keyboard CV from selected VCO
04) Put frequency slider far right (maximum)
05) Put fine tune slider – mid range
06) Adjust FREQ CAL for 8.33kHz
01) Monitor square wave output with oscilloscope and adjust SYMMETRY trimmer for 50% duty cycle.
VCO-2 Wave shape adjustments Symmetry
01) Monitor triangle output with oscilloscope
02) Adjust the "Symmetry" trimmer for best triangle waveform (you move the waveform to an triangle - you find at the waveform a spike which must be moved to get a sharp peak/top notch
DC offset adjust for the Sine Wave
01) Monitor sine wave output with oscilloscope
02) Adjust "OFFSET" trimmer so the peaks of the triangle waveform is not flat or either end - (the waveform voltage for -/+ Volt must be balanced to get the best waveform balance)
01) Monitor sine wave output with oscilloscope
02) Adjust GAIN for 10Vpp output
Mostly this step is combined with Purity - sometimes you have to give more than 10VPP to start the bending of an triangle to an Sine Wave
01) Adjust PURITY for best sine waveform
It might b e necessary to readjust calibrations after performed in the order listed.
note: if you don`t get a SINE wave , but often its just an failure from the calibration method - if you have trouble change the gain to 12-15VPP, then turn the purity trimmer)
but sometimes is a faulty 2N3958 the problem, mostly cheap Chinese fakes
VCF with 4012 VCF (original TTSH)
01) Monitor VCF output with an oscilloscope or frequency couter
02) Initial frequency slider – left
03) Fine tune slider – mid range
04) Resonance slider – right
05) All VCF inputs sliders – down
06) Disconnect or use dummy plug for KYBD CV in
07) Adjust FREQ CALIBRATE for 10Hz output
01) Repeat steps for frequency calibration but reconnect the CV keyboard
02) Depress low C (0 volts)
03) Adjust initial frequency slider and fine tune slider for 200Hz
04) Depress C three octaves higher and adjust 1V OCT trimmer for 1600Hz
05) Repeat step 2-4 until low C remains at 200Hz and C3 remains at 1600Hz
01) Monitor VCF output with oscilloscope
02) Initial frequency, fine tune, and resonance slider – left
03) All input sliders down
04) Adjust OUTPUT OFFSET for minimum DC output. Movement of the initial frequency slider should not cause more than 1V deflection
01) Open VCF initial frequency slider – right
02) Resonance slider – left
03) Raise VCO1 input slider and adjust GAIN for same amplitude as measure at VCO1 output
The only calibration adjustment that seems to make any difference with the 4072 filter module is Initial Frequency. When you remove the 4012 filter and install the 4072 filter, the Initial Frequency is shifted way down, so that the cutoff frequency is at sub audio range somewhere around 75% on the Coarse Frequency control. This one calibration needs to be repeated when changing between filter modules. The 1V/Oct panel trimmer is efficacious with the 4012 filter module, so should be adjusted for that unit, and should be undisturbed when swapping. The Offset and Gain trims work the same for both filters, and should also be undisturbed when changing filters.
The following procedure is written for end-user, and is simplified. Obviously a builder may have a more precise means of measurement.
This is based on the following standards:
a. Note C1 (MIDI note 24) = 32.70Hz
b. 0.00VDC on KBD CV bus produces note C1 at VCO1-3 and VCF cutoff frequency
If you have a different standard, adjust the target frequency you adjust to in step 8 accordingly.
1. Disconnect power and open the case, or unmount the panel if using the standard steel case.
2. Remove the in-use filter module, and install the alternate one.
3. Re-assemble, and power up the instrument. Let it warm up for 20 minutes.
4. Using a midi keyboard and midi to CV device, drive C5 (midi note 72), to produce +4.00V on the KBD CV bus.
5. Adjust the filter’s Coarse Frequency control to minimized, the Fine Frequency control is in the middle, and the Resonance control to maximum.
6. Disconnect any audio and CV inputs, and minimize their controls to the filter.
7. Connect the output of the filter into a guitar tuner. It may help to use the mixer section to attenuate the signal down to guitar level, which is something like .5V p-p (-20dB from the VCF output of 10V p-p).
8. Adjust the Freq. Calibrate trimmer from the front panel in the VCF to get C5/523hZ on the tuner. Getting close is probably good enough here.
01) Monitor VCA output with oscilloscope
02) Patch VCO3 saw to VCA ‘VCF Input’ jack and raise audio slider fully
03) Put initial gain slider – left (minimum)
04) Raise VCA AR control slider all way
05) Depress and hold the manual start button and adjust LINEAR GAIN for 10Vpp maximum signal output
01) Repeat steps 1-3 for linear gain adjustment
02) Patch VCO2 LF sine wave (2Hz) into VCA AR control input
03) Close VCA VCF input slider
04) Adjust CONTROL REJ for minimum output
High frequency reject
01) No adjustment necessary
01) Set EXP’L GAIN trimmer fully clockwise
Experiment with exponential setting…
01) Monitor the internal clock output with an oscilloscope
02) Put rate slider at max
03) Adjust INIT trimmer so the square wave doesn’t disappear at max rate setting
01) Monitor Internal clock output with an oscilloscope
02) Put RATE slider at max
03) Adjust WIDTH trimmer for 50% duty cycle
i ran in some difficult errors in some TTSHs, here are my experiences
for unknown issues/Errors check this page: useful Documentation for Troubleshooting
|Knowledge number||symptom||Probable error source||Probability of occurrence||pre check||testing||workaround||fix||lessons learned|
VCO bleed (usage of frequency slider from one OSC influenced other VCOs frequency
Frequency range isn´t good enough
screaming VCO - weird frequency / instable Frequency
|LFO/VCO switch (LF switch)||80%|
insert a stable v/oct signal
(doublecheck with other devices your v/oct signal)
press/push/wiggle the LF switch,
if you hear or measure a better result ->
heat up the 6 switch pins
normally a resolder/heatup fix the issue
|the switch pins must be soldered with other soldercore or better heated/other solder tip.|
|TTSH-2||all Slider LEDs are off||Trimmer, LED Driver|
turn on the frontpanel (left hand) the LED trimmer clockwise,
check on the frontpanel side on the empty IC socket next that you bridged pin 6+7 and no IC is plugged inside the socket.
if not fixed: measure on the 5 pole powerheader all voltages
|n/a||dont forget the jumper/bridge on pin 6-7|
|TTSH-3||few Slider LEDs are off||Trimmer, LED Driver||50%|
turn on the frontpanel (left hand) the LED trimmer clockwise,
the TTSH LEDs are connected in 6? chains and in each chain are all slider LEDs in series -
so you must check the correct LED polarisation (you can see the cathode/anode without demounting)
|swap the LED to correct orientation||dont trust machines/roboter|
|TTSH-4||all VCOs dont work||VCO 4027 boards||10%|
are the VCO subboards correct mounted ? (check the board connectors)
are the CA3046 ICs inside ?
check the soldering of the board connectors
|solder all VCO conenctor pins before mounting the silders, add the CA3046 while mounting the connectors to the subboards|
cant get a VCO sine wave in trimming/calibration process.
(you get only a triangle)
check OP-amp orientation
check J-FET (2N3954) instead 2N3958
oscilloscope shows at the TRI out a Triangle - if not fix it before.
check the symmetry at first for the triangle,
use gain to setup 10v
then use the offset to bend the triangle spikes - they must form a corner in combination with purity.
setup again 10v.
its not a easy job - try it again - the trick is the combination of offset and gain not the purity !
|before you swap the 2N3954 try other ways as before by trimming the 4 trimmers , many guys swapped the working jfets..|
|TTSH-6||ttsh works as a drone synth (by usage of cv/gate - the ttsh plays always sound instead of note on/off control)||80%|
check your silder settings -
at the VCA output mixer - only VCA output instead of VCF or VCF and VCF.
|read the usermanual|
|TTSH-7||by usage of the reverb function, a hum/noise occurs||80|
see known issues - in/out silksceen is wrong
check your noise is off
check the wiring
use double or triple shielded cable with good RCA connectors, not the Synthcube cable "solution"
the reverb distance must around 10cm or more from pcb to minimize the risk of EMV to the tank.
check the grounding of signal input in the reverb, input and output must be grounded.
check the cable with a rectifier test, check the soldering of the RCA connectors on the ttsh pcb.
make sure you have the correct reverb type (grounding and impedance)
|reverbs are very sensitive for EMV*|
|TTSH-8||ADSR Release time opens the VCA and at 20fader way, the releasetime is too long||50||check all parts for correct value, check my pictures subpage||replace the 2N5460 or 2N4392||test all trannys before soldering|
|TTSH-9||sound from speakers - without OSCs enabled/installed||30|
if the 10R resistors in the Amplifiers are hot or the MJE172 are hot, check the orientation of the MJE172 - the unlabeled side is at the white marker from the PCB.
you have a short or defect opamp on your TTSH, which blows your MJE172 and the 10R resistors within 30seconds.
you have to use a Bench power supply with current limiter, otherwise you freeze again the MJE172.
you can cut at the 1UF elks the 6 pol power header - and connect it later with PC jumpers or use resistors legs to bridge the -15715V rails.
|TTSH-10||power separation - in case of POWER FAILURES or shorts|
use a Labor bench with current limiter.
separate the Sections, by cutting the traces.
|TTSH-11||reverb doesn't work BL2AB3C1B||connect a cable from the black cable from left to the black cable on right side|
|1||when you have finished the build, move 2-3 times every slider||often the sliders cause some issues, they hang - only when you have moved the sliders 2-3 times they start to normal work|
|2||use Anti Rotating washers for the 5 nuts at the component side of the PCB|
|3||do not trust every information regarding an audio path upgrade or subs. for the LM301|
you can always use: LM101, LM201 too - they have a better temp. stability than a LM301
they are also available in SMD package and works great.
if you want an audio path upgrade, contact me and you get an offer. I do not share my secrets because some companies copy this ideas for his cheap clones.
I spend few days and a lot of money in testing different opamps (which mostly need addional part changes on the pcb)
VCF decoupling 1uF or more
Electronic switch mod
1% matched capacitors in VCF
1% 680pF Styrene in VCO
High temp. drift OPamps in VCO
Essiontial plus "my standard" plus:
Waveshaper MOD with subosc.
some additional part changes - PSU passive cooling blocks
Balanced driver with XLR
|5||why not install the MIDI mod ??|
you have a half modular system - a intern MIDI gives you only the option to connect internal 2 CV connections.
if you use a Kenton MIDI Standalone Interface (PRO SOLO MK2 or 3 etc ) - you can patch to every jack you want ! like the Ringmodulator or VCA etc...
|6||why not install the VCO SYNC option ?|
the mod isn't very easy for beginners or amateurs, the most users have problems with soft sync (when the SYNC is off) and many users blown the VCO SUB boards Transistors, which are not easy to replace. ( I have spare pcbs ) and if you install the Waveshaper board your risk of some VCO/EMV bleeds are bigger than before.
The main reason is the sound, there's not a big difference in sound between a Ring MOD sound and a SYNC sound !!!