The Psu PCB is available in my shop:
I reworked a PSU design, because the most bipolar psu pcbs doesn't match with my requirements.
This Psu is great in combination with an Yamaha PA-30, perfect for the TTSH - no EMV problems or hum from the switching DC solution and no hum on the reverb.
The Yamaha PA-30 gives you around 700mA on 15V and 700mA on -15V.
Inputs and Outputs are mechanical very stable and the pcb can be attached by 6 Screws.
The Voltage regulators can be mount directly (with isolation/glimmer pads) on a metal case like the TTSH or with cooling frames.
you can use MTA100 headers instead of the LEDs - to connect 1 or 2 external Led holder in your device.
Its important to double check every rectifier/diode and capacitor and your wiring before you test the circuit.
for SW1: don't use the MTA header- connect the cable directly.
the 3pole PSU Connector for the Yamaha PA30 is available on TME. FC684203
just install all parts from the BOM. use Glimmer(isolation) in case you attach both regulators to the same metal/cooler
for the switch SW1 - don't use a header - connect directly cables to SW1.
use the trimmer to get the correct voltage
wiring for Sw1:
use at the input fuses (F1/F2) the value which your AC-AC transformer offer - for the Yamaha PA.30 its max. 750mA - you need for F1 and F2 750-800mA fuses,
normally FAST blow fuses are not good in this circuit, please use medium or slow blow fuse types !!
for the secondary fuse use a value which is 10-20% bigger than what your device ask (for example a TTSH works great with 2x 500mA fuses and should be work with a 320mA too (depends on the additional mods)
Example for TTSH installation:
the case of the TTSH is used as a cooling block
Heres´an example of an isolated Installation with Glimmer and plastic rings - its important that both voltage regulators are isolated - there's also a plastic inlet on bottom of the nut which isolated the screw from the voltage regulator body.